Cambodian food taboos

Theravada Buddhist believers generally abstain from beef, eat protected wild animals throughout the territory, and drink alcohol in public places and religious festivals. There are obvious differences in taboo standards for different ethnic groups, different regions, and different age groups, and there is no need to apply them in a rigid way.

The first time I stepped into a related pitfall was when I first went to Siem Reap in 2019. At the noodle shop next to the old market, I pointed to the beef noodle on the menu and ordered it. The Chinese grandmother who served the food specially came over and reminded me in Chinese: “It’s okay to eat it yourself. Don’t pass it to the monks sitting next to you. They won’t touch it. ”It was later discovered that this taboo was actually the result of a double influence: on the one hand, the ancient Khmer dynasty was infiltrated by Hindu culture. The cow is Nandi, Shiva’s mount, and is a spiritual animal. Killing and eating it at will is an act that offends the gods. ； On the other hand, cattle are the most important production tool in traditional farming societies. Eating cattle is equivalent to destroying the farmers' jobs. Over time, this has become a consensus among Theravada Buddhist believers. However, not everyone abides by this rule. Last year, I met a local girl who was doing UI design at a Korean barbecue restaurant in Phnom Penh. She had a plate full of roasted beef ribs in front of her and she was chewing the aroma. She said that her family was Chinese and there was no such taboo. Even local Khmer peers now feel that it is perfectly fine to eat some beef as long as they do not kill the cow themselves. Only the monks in the temple and the older generation in the countryside still strictly abide by it.

If you go northwest and encounter villages where the Cham people live together, the focus of the taboo will completely change. The Cham are the main Muslim ethnic group in Cambodia, accounting for about 2% of the total population. Their diet completely follows halal standards, prohibiting pork, dead animals, and blood, and they will never touch animals that are not slaughtered in the name of Allah. Last time I went to a Cham village in Battambang to do rural research, I had half a bag of uneaten pork jerky in my bag. I just took it out and wanted to use it as a souvenir, but the local guide who was traveling with me pushed it back into the bag and said, "take this thing out. Even if people take it with a smile, they will feel uncomfortable for a long time." Later, I went around to the halal grocery store at the entrance of the village and bought two packs of dates to send over. When the owner picked them up, his eyes lit up, and he pulled me to drink three large glasses of freshly squeezed palm juice.

There is another rule that is non-negotiable, whether you are a tourist or a local: you must not eat protected wild animals. Previously, a German tourist bought roasted pangolins on the black market in Siem Reap to try out. After being reported, he was fined US$2,000 and deported on the same day. He was banned from entering the country for five years. Moreover, many local aboriginal tribes believe that monkeys, snakes, pangolins, etc. are spiritual creatures in the mountains and forests, and they would not touch them. Even if there are vendors selling them secretly, don't join in the fun. Firstly, it is illegal, and secondly, most wild things carry parasites. If you eat them, you can't even find a hospital in a remote place.

What many tourists tend to overlook are the regulations on drinking in public places. Cambodian law clearly states that except for business establishments such as bars and qualified restaurants, public drinking is not allowed on streets, parks, and around temples. During important Buddhist festivals such as Buddha’s Birthday and Gading Festival, all shops across the country must stop selling alcoholic beverages. I was staying in Phnom Penh during the Buddha's Birthday last year. I wanted to go to a convenience store to buy a bottle of cold beer in the evening. The boss patted the beer box under the counter, waved his hand and said that he didn't dare to sell it today. If he found it, he would be fined half a month's sales.

The rest are some unwritten rules, which can save you a lot of trouble if you pay attention to them: for example, don’t stick your chopsticks straight into the rice when eating. The locals think this is a way to sacrifice the deceased, which is very unlucky.； When passing food and tableware, try to use your right hand. Traditionally, the left hand is used for cleaning. Using your left hand to pass things will be considered disrespectful. Last time I had spring rolls with a local friend, I handed one over with my left hand, and he took it with a smile. After the meal, he told me privately that if he met his grandfather, he would probably put the spring rolls back in front of him. This is not stingy, but a lifelong habit that cannot be changed.

In fact, after traveling to Cambodia more than a dozen times, I feel that there is no need to treat these taboos as a scourge. The locals are very tolerant. If you ask questions in advance, no one will think you are offended. Instead, they will think you respect their habits. After all, these rules are not rules and regulations used to make things difficult for others. They are just the way of life passed down by the locals for thousands of years. If you pay more attention, the troubles during the journey will turn into interesting memories.